Common Problems with Tomatoes, Peppers, Squash & More 🫑

As we move through the middle of spring in Central Texas, home gardeners may begin noticing small but worrisome changes in their vegetable plants. Tomatoes are blooming but not fruiting. Peppers look healthy, yet the leaves are curling. Squash might suddenly have pale spots or distorted fruit. These early signs of stress are your plants’ way of signaling that something needs attention.

Now is the perfect time to intervene. Catching these issues early in the season means you can take simple corrective steps that lead to a stronger summer harvest. Many common problems in mid-spring are caused by inconsistent watering, temperature fluctuations, nutrient imbalances, or low pollinator activity—all of which can be addressed with thoughtful, organic gardening practices.

In this blog, we’ll walk you through five of the most common vegetable problems affecting tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, and more. For each issue, you’ll learn how to identify the symptoms, understand the underlying causes, and apply practical, organic solutions tailored for Central Texas growing conditions.

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Blossom Drop: Flowers but No Fruit

Common Crops Affected

Tomatoes, peppers, squash, eggplant, cucumbers

Blossom drop is one of the most frustrating problems for spring vegetable gardeners—especially when plants are large, healthy, and flowering beautifully, yet no fruit ever seems to form. This issue tends to show up as early as April and can continue through May if environmental stressors are present. It’s a natural survival response by the plant when conditions aren’t favorable for fruit development.

Causes

1. Temperature stress: Tomatoes and peppers are particularly sensitive to temperature extremes. If nighttime temperatures drop below 55°F or rise above 70–75°F, pollination can be disrupted. On the flip side, when daytime temperatures exceed 85–90°F (especially when paired with dry winds or low humidity), pollen can become non-viable or sticky, making fertilization difficult. Squash and cucumbers are slightly more tolerant but still show similar problems under heat spikes.

2. Lack of pollination: Many garden vegetables rely on bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to move pollen between flowers. If few pollinators are active in your garden—or if weather conditions (wind, rain, or high temperatures) reduce pollinator visits—fruit set may not occur. Squash and cucumbers are especially prone to blossom drop when male and female flowers are not open at the same time or pollinators are absent.

3. Excess nitrogen or water stress: Over-fertilizing with high-nitrogen fertilizers promotes leafy growth but suppresses flower and fruit development. Likewise, inconsistent watering—especially cycles of dryness followed by heavy irrigation—can cause plants to shed blossoms to conserve energy.

Solutions

1. Hand-pollinate in the early morning: Use a small paintbrush, cotton swab, or even a gentle shake to help move pollen between flowers. For squash and cucumbers, transfer pollen from male to female flowers manually (female blooms have a small bulge beneath the flower, which becomes the fruit).

2. Improve airflow and pollinator access: Space plants properly and avoid overcrowding to encourage good air circulation. Companion planting with flowers like zinnias, basil, and Mexican sunflower can also attract more bees and beneficial insects to your garden.

3. Use balanced fertilizer formulas: Avoid excessive nitrogen and switch to a balanced, organic fertilizer like a 4-6-3 or 3-4-5 formula. These encourage both healthy roots and productive flowering. Bone meal or soft rock phosphate can be useful for phosphorus support, which is key to flower development.

4. Maintain consistent moisture: Water deeply and infrequently to keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. A 2–3" layer of mulch helps buffer temperature swings and prevents rapid evaporation.

Extra Tip:

If your tomatoes and peppers are healthy but dropping flowers during sudden hot spells in May, don't panic. This can be a temporary response to heat. As temperatures stabilize, fruit production typically resumes.

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Leaf Curling, Yellowing, or Drooping

Leaf curling or yellowing is one of the first visual signs that something isn’t right in the vegetable garden. While the causes can range from environmental stress to viral disease, many of these issues can be addressed early—before they affect flowering or fruit production. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are particularly prone to these symptoms, though squash and beans can show similar stress responses.

Common Causes

1. Inconsistent watering: One of the most common reasons for curled or drooping leaves is improper watering. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to wilt or twist their leaves. If the soil dries out completely and then is flooded with water, it stresses the plant’s vascular system, causing leaf edges to curl under or cup upward.

2. Herbicide drift: Even when you don’t apply herbicides in your garden, windborne chemical drift from nearby lawns or fields can cause damage. Herbicide exposure often results in distorted, cupped, or twisted leaves, especially on tomatoes and beans. The damage usually appears on new growth first.

3. Viral infections: Viruses such as Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) and Cucumber Mosaic Virus cause a range of leaf symptoms including curling, stunting, mottled yellowing, and misshapen foliage. These viruses are typically spread by insect vectors like whiteflies and aphids.

Corrective Actions

1. Water deeply but infrequently: Establish a regular watering schedule. Aim to water at the root zone, not on the leaves, and always check soil moisture 1–2 inches below the surface before watering again. Mulching with straw or leaf mold helps regulate moisture levels and temperature around the root zone.

2. Inspect for symptoms of herbicide exposure: If new growth is curled and twisted but older growth looks normal, consider herbicide drift as a potential cause. There is no cure for this kind of damage, but affected plants may outgrow the issue over time if they were not severely impacted. Avoid using compost or mulch that may have been made from herbicide-treated grasses.

3. Remove and destroy infected plants: The best control for viral issues is prevention. Once a plant is infected, it cannot be cured and may act as a reservoir for spreading disease. Promptly remove and discard symptomatic plants—do not compost them. Use floating row covers early in the season to reduce insect transmission of viruses and maintain good garden hygiene.

4. Manage insect populations: Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves for whiteflies, aphids, and spider mites. These pests not only feed on plant juices but also transmit viruses. Neem oil, insecticidal soap, and strong blasts of water can reduce populations before they cause severe damage.

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Misshapen, Cracked, or Rotting Fruit

Irregular fruit is often the clearest signal that something disrupted the growing process at a key developmental stage. Whether it's a cucumber curling like a hook or a tomato with deep radial cracks, these issues usually stem from uneven pollination, nutrient imbalances, or fluctuations in moisture. The good news is that most of these problems are preventable with a few consistent habits.

Common Problems and Their Causes

1. Cracking in tomatoes and peppers: Cracks, particularly radial ones that spread from the stem end, typically occur after sudden shifts in soil moisture, often when dry soil is followed by heavy irrigation or rainfall. The fruit rapidly swells before the skin can expand, leading to splits. These cracks can invite fungal and bacterial infections if not monitored.

2. Blossom end rot in tomatoes, peppers, and squash: Blossom end rot begins as a small, darkened spot at the base of the fruit, which expands into a sunken, leathery area. It’s caused by a calcium deficiency, but the root problem is almost always inconsistent watering that prevents calcium uptake. Water stress can block absorption even if your soil contains enough calcium.

3. Misshapen cucumbers and squash: Cucumbers that are stubby, curled, or bulbous at one end were likely affected by poor pollination. Female flowers that receive only partial pollen transfer often begin to form fruit but cannot develop evenly, resulting in oddly shaped produce. This is particularly common during periods of low pollinator activity or extreme weather.

Solutions and Prevention

1. Maintain consistent watering habits: Watering deeply and consistently helps prevent both fruit cracking and blossom end rot. Avoid the cycle of bone-dry soil followed by a sudden soak. A mulch layer of 2–3 inches helps maintain stable moisture levels and reduces evaporation.

2. Use calcium-rich organic fertilizers: Bone meal, gypsum, and crushed eggshells are all good long-term sources of calcium, especially for blossom end rot prevention. Apply these at planting and again mid-season. Fast-acting foliar sprays of calcium nitrate can be used as a temporary fix, but consistent watering is more important.

3. Support pollination efforts: Encourage pollinator activity by planting native flowers such as lemon beebalm, Turk’s cap, and milkweed nearby. In the early morning, you can hand-pollinate by brushing pollen from male to female flowers with a soft paintbrush. For squash, male flowers are typically on longer, thinner stems; female flowers have an immature fruit at the base.

4. Harvest ripe fruit promptly: Overripe fruit left on the vine can contribute to plant stress and lead to more cracking and rot. Harvest regularly to keep plants focused on new growth and fruit production.

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Sunscald & Heat Damage

In Central Texas, the intensity of the late spring and early summer sun can be relentless. While vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and squash are sun-loving plants, their fruits are still vulnerable to overexposure. Sunscald and heat damage are particularly common when plants are pruned too aggressively or when leaves are lost to pests or disease, leaving fruits without natural shading.

Symptoms

Sunscald appears as pale, bleached, or papery spots on the side of the fruit that receives the most direct sunlight—typically the upper or southwestern exposure. These areas may start as soft and slightly yellow, then develop into white or tan patches. In severe cases, the affected tissue may become thin and brittle, inviting secondary infections like mold or rot.

This problem most commonly affects:

• Tomatoes

• Bell peppers

• Eggplants

• Squash (especially pale varieties like yellow crookneck)

Contributing Factors

1. Over-pruning or poor canopy structure: Removing too much foliage, especially in an effort to increase airflow or remove pest-damaged leaves, can leave developing fruit exposed to full afternoon sun. This is especially risky in May and June, when sunlight is most intense and daytime highs climb into the 90s.

2. Lack of mulch or soil insulation: Bare soil heats up quickly, increasing ambient temperatures around the lower part of the plant. This can exacerbate water loss and stress, compounding the likelihood of sun damage.

3. Low humidity and wind: Dry air and hot winds accelerate moisture loss from both the soil and plant tissue, making fruits more susceptible to cellular breakdown when exposed to direct sunlight.

Prevention Strategies

1. Preserve foliage around developing fruit: Avoid removing healthy leaves unless they are heavily pest-damaged or diseased. Plants use their leaves to shade fruit naturally, particularly on the western side. Light pruning can improve airflow, but over-pruning can do more harm than good.

2. Use shade cloth during peak heat: For crops in full sun, especially those on the south or west side of a structure, consider using a 30% shade cloth during the hottest part of the afternoon. This reduces sun intensity without compromising light availability. Install shade cloth loosely to allow air circulation beneath.

3. Apply mulch to moderate soil temperature: A 2–3 inch layer of straw, leaf mold, pine needles, or untreated wood chips will help keep root zones cooler. This reduces stress on the plant and helps it maintain a healthy canopy of foliage to protect fruit.

4. Plant heat-tolerant varieties: Some tomato and pepper cultivars are bred to tolerate high heat and reduced humidity. Look for varieties labeled as “heat set” or “sun-tolerant” when selecting transplants for late spring and summer gardens.

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Stunted Plants or No Harvest Yet

One of the most discouraging experiences in a spring garden is watching healthy-looking plants remain small or fail to produce fruit altogether. By mid- to late May, many Central Texas gardeners expect their tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers to be growing vigorously. When they stall out, it’s often due to a combination of soil issues, nutrient imbalances, transplant stress, or pest interference—all of which can be addressed with proper management.

Potential Issues

1. Nutrient imbalance—too much nitrogen: When plants get an excess of nitrogen, especially early in the season, they often focus their energy on producing lush green foliage at the expense of flowering and fruiting. This is common when using lawn fertilizers or fast-acting high-nitrogen products not formulated for vegetables.

2. Root-bound or shocked transplants: If a transplant was left in its nursery pot too long, its roots may have grown in tight circles around the container, leading to poor establishment in the soil. Similarly, if a seedling is transplanted during a sudden temperature spike or without adequate hardening off, it may go into transplant shock, pausing growth for weeks.

3. Pest pressure from sap-sucking insects: Aphids, whiteflies, flea beetles, and stink bugs may not always be visible at first glance, but they can weaken plants significantly. These pests suck nutrients from the leaves and stems, limiting the plant’s ability to grow and produce fruit. Young plants are especially vulnerable.

4. Poor soil structure or fertility: Heavy clay soils common in Central Texas may compact easily, limiting root growth and oxygen availability. If plants aren’t forming deep, healthy roots, they’ll remain small no matter how much fertilizer or water they receive.

Solutions

1. Switch to balanced, slow-release organic fertilizers: Use vegetable-specific formulations that support both foliage and reproductive growth. Avoid overapplying composted manures or lawn fertilizers with high nitrogen values. If you've already added too much nitrogen, focus on watering thoroughly and applying a phosphorus-rich booster like bone meal to shift the plant toward flowering.

2. Inspect root systems and planting depth: If you suspect a transplant was root-bound, carefully dig around the plant and examine the roots. If they're still in a tight ball, gently loosen them with your fingers and replant. Make sure transplants are not buried too shallow or too deep, as improper planting depth can affect nutrient uptake and oxygen access.

3. Scout daily for insects and early signs of damage: Look under leaves and along stems, especially in the early morning or late afternoon. Use insecticidal soap, neem oil, or horticultural oils to reduce pest populations without harming beneficial insects. Strong blasts of water from a hose can dislodge aphids and whiteflies.

4. Apply compost and mulch to improve soil health: A layer of finished compost worked lightly into the soil around the base of plants will increase microbial activity and improve nutrient availability. Mulch not only conserves water but also supports beneficial soil life, which helps plants recover from early stress.

5. Be patient during transition weeks: Late spring in Central Texas often includes sharp changes in temperature and wind. Many warm-season vegetables will temporarily slow down during these fluctuations, then resume growth as nighttime temperatures stabilize and roots become more established.

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Conclusion

Mid-spring is a critical window for identifying and correcting issues before they affect your summer harvest. Whether you're seeing blossom drop, yellowing leaves, or oddly shaped fruit, most problems have practical solutions rooted in observation, consistency, and soil health. With a little attention each morning and a few targeted interventions, you can guide your vegetables through the ups and downs of Central Texas weather and into a productive, healthy season. Stay patient, stay curious, and remember—gardening success often comes from what you learn in the problem-solving process.

Happy Gardening!

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Sources

1. Ozores-Hampton, Monica, and Gene McAvoy. What Causes Blossom Drop in Tomatoes? University of Florida IFAS Extension, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1195.

2. Janne, E.E., and R.E. Roberts. Timely Tips on Starting Seedlings at Home. Earth-Kind® Landscaping, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. [PDF document].

3. Brown, Wizzie. Creating an Insect-Friendly Landscape. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service. [PDF document].

4. Old Farmer’s Almanac Vegetable Growing Guides. The Old Farmer’s Almanac, https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar.