Round Rock Gardens 901 Sam Boss Rd Round Rock, TX
 
 
 
Customer Buzz
 
Events
 
About Us
 
In the Greenhouse
 
In the Nursery
 
Gardener's Calendar
 
What's Bugging You
 
Garden Basics
 
Specials & Coupons
 
Community Outreach
 

Round Rock Gardens
901 Sam Bass Rd.
(1/4 mile west of I-35 on Hwy. 79)
Round Rock, TX 78681

(512) 255-3353

 

Growing and Storing Herbs

Growing herbs, whether inside or out, may be one of gardening’s most gratifying experiences. Because of their beauty and versatility, herbs may be grown amid vegetables, ornamentals, or in a garden dedicated strictly to their kind. They may be nurtured in a sunny window box, strawberry pot, whiskey barrel or just about any container you choose. Situate your herbs for easy access: on the patio, deck, a sunny windowsill or in the kitchen garden. Herbs are relatively carefree and have a multitude of uses that include but are not limited to: culinary, aromatic, ornamental, medicinal and insect control.

Growing

Choose a full sun location, 4-6 hours per day is best. Herbs will grow in a shadier location; however, plants will be weak and thin. Most herbs are not demanding of soil fertility. One thing that they will not tolerate, however, is wet or poorly drained soil.

Locate herbs in or near the kitchen for easy access when cooking. Be aware of the ultimate size, height and spread of the herbs that you plan to grow. If you take this into consideration you can assure room for the plants to reach their full potential. Position taller herbs to the back of the garden or container and shorter herbs to the front; this will allow for easier access and prevent shading.

Water pots before planting. Remove plants from their pots and loosen roots to stimulate new root growth. Place plants at the same soil depth that they were in the pot, or slightly higher, to avoid rotting, gently firm soil around each plant, water and mulch. Feed monthly with a mild, organic fertilizer such as Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer 3-2-1.

Some herbs, such as mints, have a tendency to be invasive and may take over an entire herb garden. Sink aggressive potted herbs directly into the garden. Pull up pots each spring to replenish soil. Sink container back into the garden for another season.

Growing herbs indoors is also quite simple. Choose herbs that will not get too large to handle inside. The same soil requirements apply for both indoor and outdoor planting. Select a south or west window to situate your plants. It may be beneficial or necessary to supplement with artificial lighting during the winter months. Provide humidity by grouping plants together and misting daily. Another option is placing potted herbs on a humidity tray. Fertilize monthly with Neptune’s Harvest. We always carry an extensive assortment of the most distinctive herbs available in both seed and starter plants.

Harvesting

Fresh herb leaves are ready to be harvested as soon as there is enough foliage to maintain the plant. Try to harvest in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun becomes too hot, using a sharp knife or scissors. It is a good idea to harvest only what you plan to use at time of cutting as herbs do not store well in the refrigerator. With most herbs it is beneficial to harvest before the plants go to flower as the taste is better at this stage of growth. Rinse with cold water and pat dry before using.

Drying

Harvest herbs as directed. Drain on absorbent towels, tie in bunches and dry thoroughly by hanging bunches up in the sun just until all water evaporates from the surface of the herbs. Remove plants from sun and hang in a clean, dark, dry location with good air circulation for 1- 2 weeks until herbs are completely dry and brittle. If not dried completely the herbs will become moldy in storage. Remove leaves from the stem and store them in an air tight container in a cool, dry, low light environment. Check container in a few days for condensation. If there is any moisture in the container you must start the drying process again.

You may dry herbs in a conventional or microwave oven. With a conventional oven, position clean herbs in a single layer on a shallow pan. Place baking pan in a 180°F oven for 2 to 4 hours. When using a microwave place clean herbs in a single layer on a paper towel or plate. Cook herbs on high for 1 to 3 minutes, mixing every 30 seconds, until thoroughly dry. Continue as above.

Freezing

Freezing herbs is also easy to accomplish. Wash herbs and blanch in boiling water for 1 minute. Cool herbs very quickly in ice water then drain. Package herbs in air tight plastic bags and store in the freezer.

Long Blooming Summer
Perennials

By choosing long-blooming perennial plants, you can capitalize on the best of both worlds - plants that persist, or come back from growing season to growing season, and those that bloom for an extended length of time. This also means that you'll have more time to appreciate the gardens that you create!

Here is just a sampling of long-blooming perennial plants for the sunny garden:

Achillea, or Yarrow, are very drought and heat resistant plants, once established. The flower heads are long lasting and many colors are available from yellow, gold, pink, pastels in apricot, lilac, salmon, cream and white. Plants grow from 8" to 3' tall, depending on variety. The flat-topped flower heads grow up to several inches across, and make excellent cut and dried flowers, especially yellow. The fern-like, gray to gray-green foliage is somewhat aromatic and attractive even when the plant is not in bloom.

Coreopsis, Tickseed, is one of the easiest and most rewarding garden flowers. The thread leaf varieties are usually the longest blooming, typically from June through fall. The pale yellow, bright yellow or rosy-pink daisy flowers smother the slender stems and thread-like leaves. Plant height, from 15 - 24", is variety dependent. A mid-summer shearing of the seed heads will keep these plants blooming for many more weeks.

Echinacea purpurea, Purple Coneflower, is a sturdy, bold-textured, dark green foliaged favorite that grows to 2 - 3' tall and wide. The flowers are large, daisy-like with unique standings of dark-rose purple and lighter in color.

Rudbeckia, Black-eyed Susan, is an old-fashioned garden favorite. It is hardy, reliable, insect and disease free, and an exceptionally long-blooming plant - typically from July through fall. This medium-green, bold-foliaged plant grows to about 3' tall and bears golden yellow, daisy flowers with dark brown centers. Both Echinacea and Rudbeckia flowers make excellent cut flowers and a wonderful place for butterflies to sit and eat.

Gallardia or Blanket Flower is an American native plant which thrives in the hot sun and has beautiful yellow-orange flowers, marked with red. Height varies according to variety. Some favorites include "Baby Cole" which is a dwarf only 8" high, "Goblin," a 12”-15” grower, and "Burgundy," which reaches 18”-24” and whose flowers are a gorgeous shade of burgundy red.

For intense blue flowers from mid-summer to September, plant Plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides). Plumbago spreads quickly to form a neat groundcover and as an added bonus, leaves turn a brilliant red in the fall before dropping. This excellent perennial grows well in light shade also.
Veronica, Speedwell, has neat, attractive foliage and abundant flowers in densely packed spikes. Look for the cultivars 'Goodness Grows' and taller 'Sunny Border Blue' for a beautiful addition of blue to your summer garden.

Remember, this is just a brief glimpse of the long-blooming perennials available to choose from. Stop by to see our wide selection of perennials so we can help you determine the plants best suited to your garden.

 



© 2002-2010 Garden Center Solutions
All Rights Reserved